Chiloé, Chile

Be forewarned: wander through Chiloé’s winding gravel roads and sleepy fishing villages and you just might never come back.

Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile
Chiloé, Chile

More about Chiloé, Chile

The island's roads are slowly being paved, and each square inch of asphalt brings with it another wave of tourism. Yet Chiloé still feels like the land time forgot. Small wooden shingled houses punctuate the rolling hills, their bright colors infusing the scene with a light hearted sense of the simple life. In Chiloé the cows take it easy and so do the locals, so match their meandering place and enjoy the relaxed feel of this island where no one is ever in a hurry. Let the gravel roads slow you down and enjoy the scenery as it slowly rolls past you; endless pastures of green grass with a sea view peeking around the most unexpected corners. Blue ocean runs into blue mountains from the vantage point of some of Chiloé's must visit towns, including Dalcuhue, Achao, Tenaún, and Quemchi, where the view stretches all the way from the pebble beach to the Andes.

At its core, Chiloé is a fishing island and the industry is alive and well. Oyster beds dot the sea and you would be remiss to not sample one of the fine shellfish stuffed empanadas on offer. Another culinary must is curanto, a rich traditional stew of shellfish, meat, and potatoes that is cooked over a meter underground in an antiquated version of a pressure cooker.

Perhaps the island's most renowned feature are its wooden chapels and churches. Designated a UNESCO world heritage site, these wooden structures will defy your definition of what a cathedral should be. Their bright colors make a statement against the landscape, and yet they simultaneously seem so natural and organic that you can't imagine a time when they weren't there.

Of the original 60 churches once standing on the island, 16 of them are UNESCO world heritage sites. They were constructed beginning in the 17th century as a result of Jesuit missionary influence. Their construction in wood not only is the result of what materials were available, but represents a unique melding of indigenous culture and European traditions. Constructed by the local fishermen and farmers who were converted by the missionaries, the churches display their talent with woodwork and carpentry. They have been lovingly preserved by their local communities and still serve as active centers of worship. The paint colors chosen lean toward the bright and buoyant, from cerulean blue to a warm butter yellow with fuchsia trim. Some have opted for a more organic look, leaving the wooden shingles bare and letting the architecture speak for itself.

The churches of Chiloé emote a tranquility in step with the island’s overall atmosphere. A unique sight, they offer up a chance to see a slice of Chile’s history you won’t find anywhere else. Brave the bumpy gravel roads and get there before everyone else does. You’ll be glad to say that you saw Chiloé when it was still a real, working, island of fishermen, not the bustling tourist destination it is undoubtedly destined to become.

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